Somewhere Over the Rainbow (yes, skies are blue!)

I know that Ed has already said this, but I also have to admit that I've not been impressed so far with Italy. Sorry to all those who recommended it to us, but for our purposes, it's not lived up to the hype and expectation! Weather, campsites, roads. All terrible so far! We've been desperately hoping this would improve, and the sight of a rainbow over our van early the other morning gave us some renewed optimism.

Since that event, we have met several people who, though total strangers to us, have been really kind and helpful, and have gone out of their way to help us out a little.

Take Klaus and Christa, who we met at the Parcheggio in Marina di Pisa. They offered us the loan of a book with several suitable Aires/Sosta Camping sites along the coast where we would be able to camp safely for a reduced rate, sometimes with electric hook up, and sometimes even with shower and WC facilities. On leaving Pisa, we aimed for one of these Sostas. Sadly, we missed the first one in Marina di Bobbina (poor Italian road signs, not my map reading, honest!), the second one in Marina di Castagnetto was closed, but third time lucky, we found an excellent "agriturismo" Sosta called Isolotto, along the coast from Torre Mozza which was 10€ per night (approx £8) for all of us, with electricity, showers and toilets!!! We did feel a bit smug that night! In fact we liked it so much that we stayed for 2 nights! And there we met a lovely couple from Germany who told us of a lovely seaside walk, offered us the over night loan of guidebooks and maps of Rome, and also gave us an ADAC card, which like the ACSI card we bought gives reduced rates at certain campsites. For free! Total strangers being kind beyond belief!

Today we have taken advice from both these lovely couples. We headed to a Sosta on a strange piece of land called Monte Argentario. On completing the maths, the Sosta was proving to be costly for us- 36€ the night, and the facilities were very poor compared to Isolotto. Along the way on this trip, if we have learnt nothing else, we have at least learnt that sometimes saying "NO" is actually a good option, so we moved on to another recommendation by Klaus and Christa. 

The Terme di Saturnia is a naturally occurring underground water way where the water runs at a constant temperature, about 34 degrees. It's free to swim/bathe/steam yourself in it, or you can pay to go into the Hotel Spa and be pampered. We arrived at the car park, which actually turned out to be a Sosta! Hurray! 14€ per night. Quite reasonable, and within walking distance of the spa. However, due to all the rain there has been lately in Italy (have we mentioned that yet?) the main bathing area is currently closed as a new wall is being built. We set off on our afternoon jaunt to have a look. Along the track, we met an Italian couple in their dressing gowns. They looked at us in shock as we were fully clothed. "Are you not going to bathe" they asked. They told us the river was always open, and that we just needed to walk to the Hotel Spa, but take a right turn through the field across the mud, and into the river. Well, another good recommendation from total strangers as we spent the rest of the afternoon just messing about in the river!!!

Lots of fun had by all! It's now 111 days since we left home, and therefore 111 days since we've had baths! Unlike a bath, the temperature remained the same for the whole hour we were in there!!!

Clare

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In addition to this post we must not forget to mention the kindness of Mr Agip. Mr Agip, another stranger whose real name we do not know sadly, was a true star today and sadly we never got to say a proper thankyou! As well as taking a much needed bath today, we started the search for 2 new tyres for Hugo, whose shoes seem to be a little thread bare shall we say. We drove into Grosseto with the optimism of happening across a place for "Duo nuevo gomme". Our luck was out, therefore we pulled onto the Agip petrol forecourt. Mr Agip was standing by his moped unloading shopping from every available place that you could imagine. He was the only man apparently working on the forecourt. Ed stumbled into the conversation with him, and I could see the two of them trying to work out what each other was saying. He seemed to realise what we wanted, and then quickly continued to take bread and bags off his bike. Then he strapped his helmet on, jumped on his bike, and was literally gone, whilst beckoning us. A rather comical situation began as we tried to 'follow that bike' as he wasped his way around the streets of Grosetto. We managed to keep with him as he took us to his friend's garage for 2 new tyres. Sadly his friend didn't have the appropriate tyres, but as soon as we had found that out, Mr Agip had already disappeared like an angel of motoring assistance. Thanks to Mr Agip! Also, thanks Italy, we are beginning to get you a little now. Feeling much happier overall. Must be that rainbow!