Friday, 31 October 2014

Absolutely Gorge-ous!

"Right, let's get dressed and get down to Cannes" was the declaration this morning as the coolness of the mountain night at our France Passion stopover meant that getting going was a key issue. Once breakfasted and dressed with the van warming, we aimed for Cannes on the most direct route. If you look on a map, we were due to follow part of Napoleon's ill fated route where he marched 350km in 6 days with his 700 troops to then all get killed. This was from Digne les Bains down to Grasse. However, as we were already down a small tributary road south of Digne, it seemed daft to go north. So we headed south. Little did we know what a treat of a day it was going to be.
Initially as we left our stop, the climbs in Hugo were long and drawn out affairs with far reaching views. Once on the top though, there was a plateau where lavender was being grown in abundance with the real Alp mountains rising forth quite spectacularly in the distance. Whilst this was all going on, Clare was researching like a 'Treasure Hunt' contestant (the 1980's programme with Anneka Rice and a helicopter) and discovered that quite by accident our route passed through a small town called Moustiers Ste Marie which by all accounts was a quite unspoilt little beauty spot nestled in the mountain side. There is a small metal star hanging high above the church (between the two sheer cliff peaks) which can't be seen in the photo, but stars feature highly thoroughly the village.
A wander was required along with the purchase of the obligatory baguette (the daily chore whilst in France!) and then the journey carried on. 
At this moment, we realised that we were on the route to the Gorges of Verdon, something I recall Peter our neighbour saying we must visit. As we approached the Gorges, the Lac de Ste Croix came stunningly into view with it's amazingly blue colour set against the beaches it nestled in. Again, Clare was frantically researching the information whilst navigating too!
This is where my desire to swim in every bit of open water kicked in. It seems to be doing that a lot at the moment. Sadly not this time, as a bendy slow climb up the Gorge took us deeper into many an "oh wow" moment, both in the front and the back of the van. The Gorge was huge and could swallow Cheddar Gorge one hundred times over I think! We pootled along staying as best as we could away from the impending edge as be twisted and turned our way along. 
Stopping for lunch on the little town of La Palad Sur Verdon was quite fortuitous. Over lunch, whilst still researching, it turned out that there was a looped section of 'really dangerous' Gorge driving, about 20km long. Our maps are quite inadequate at describing elevations, and were nothing better than a rough guide that it was a loop. With that in mind I set off on the bike for a ride around. The road I took plummeted in the freezing shadows for 1 or 2 km -  a good start? Possibly, but there was the realisation that I needed to climb out again. From then on though, the road was quite amazing. See Clare's previous post on Awe and Wonder...this seemed to have it all!
I climbed 2000ft (according to my Garmin) to the top via un barriered roads with huge drops and little to stop you from going to the bottom. A careful cycle was needed. The climb just got more beautiful as I found out how unfit I felt, having not really done masses of exercise recently. With every passing twist and turn, the views increased in their enormity and their amazing vista. I was however going the "wrong way". Apparently you can go halfway round this loop. And the second half is one way. So having got to the top, I ignored that and carried on.
Upon my return, we decided to take Hugo around!
This turned out to be quite an adventure! Guiding 7.5m of vehicle on a single track road with an amazing edge, whilst trying to ignore the yelps of fear from the passengers side turned out to be the most of an hours drive for only 14 miles.
With that all completed, we really had to get cracking. It was getting late and we had to find our camping for the night. From here on, the Gorge driving kept on giving...
with a stunning drop down further nearer to the water, which was still giving it's "Come and swim in me" vibe, despite the icey blueness. At this stage though, I was getting tired. I had done well over a Monaco Grand Prix's worth of hairpins turns for the whole F1 grid. I longed for some straight road. We got little bits, but there were still many climbs and descents down to Cannes. 
At one point we were wondering where Cannes was, the mountains only giving up at the last as we dropped down from Grasse towards Cannes in the dark. We found our site quite easily. 4star camping, but a cheap enough place, that only then spoilt the day by charging €8.60 per child per night. I think a discussion is in order in the morning. Most places only charge €1-3 per night for children.
However, despite this, a simply fantastic day, that hadn't been planned in at all.
Ed

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